Step 2 – Drill hole in side of refrigerator. I didn’t take any measurements. Just opened the door and eyed it to where the shank would fasten flush to the inside of the refrigerator. I also took into consideration that I eventually want to add a 2nd tap to the refrigerator.
Homebrew on Nitro Pilot Hole
Step 3 – Drill whole with Hole Saw Bit
Homebrew on Nitro Hole Saw Bit
Step 4 – Insert PVC piece into whole drilled and use pencil to mark where when you saw it the remaining piece will sit nicely inside side of refrigerator.
Homebrew on Nitro – PVC
Step 5 – Saw PVC with hack saw.
Step 6 – Insert Cut PVC into hole drilled into side of refrigerator
Step 7 – Insert shank through PVC and secure against inside of refrigerator with wrench (inside nut) and faucet wrench (outside)
Homebrew on Nitro Shank Installation
Step 8 – Attach Faucet to outside of shank and beer hose to inside of shank and attach with beer hose clamp.
Next steps are to attach Nitrogen Tank and Beer hose to corny keg just like you already are with your standard configuration when serving beer with CO2.
Dispensing homebrew on Nitrogen Procedure:
Determine what temperature your beer is in the refrigerator force carbonate to 2 vols of CO2 (See graphic below). I force carbonated for about 1 week at 8 PSI. Ideal temperature is 42 degrees fahrenheit .
Detach C02 from keg and bleed all of the C02 out.
Attach Nitro to Keg and set PSI at 30.
Attach beer hose to keg and fill a pint glass. My first pour at 30 PSI was way to much so I bled out all of the Nitrogen in head space and dropped PSI level down to 15 PSI. Depending on temperature of beer and carbonation level your required PSI will vary.
DIY Igloo Cooler Mash Tun Conversion for All Grain Brewing
The below step by step procedure should give you all the information you need to build a cheap mash tun for all grain brewing.
10 Gallon Igloo Cooler - You can get these coolers many places. I got the one I used significantly cheaper on eBay but many other coolers can be substituted to build an effective Mash Tun. I opted to used a round cooler but rectangle coolers can work well too.
Cooler Bulkhead - I have seen other tutorials online with cheaper options but I have not had much success stopping the cooler from leaking with those so I spent the extra money and got a bulkhead that works really well. Not only did it stop the leaking problem it also helped keep the mash from loosing temperature. In previous designs I was typically loosing about 4 degrees during the hour mashing process.
Brass Barb x MIP Adapter (2) – You will need 2 of these for use inside of the cooler to connect to the Braided Stainless Steel (step 4) that will be used to filter the wort as it drains through the grain bed.
Stainless-Steel Braided Faucet Supply Line - I bought the 16 inch length so I had extra to use in the event I made any mistakes or needed to make any repairs. During initial construction you will only need about half.
Brass Square-Head Plug - This will be used secure to one end of the stainless-steel braided faucet supply line.
Wire Ties (2) – These will be used to secure the steel braid (item 4) to brass barb MIP adapter (item 3) and to the brass plug (item 5).
Teflon Tape – This will be used to wrap around the threads of the brass barb MIP adapter (item 3) that will be screwed into the cooler bulkhead (item 2).
Igloo Cooler Mash Tun Conversion Installation Instructions:
Step 1: Remove spigot from cooler
Step 2: Use hacksaw and cut braided steel. Once you have cut a length that will fit inside you cooler make sure to pull out the plastic inner lining in the direction that does not un-braid the steel. See image below.
Step 3: Install Brass Plug into one open end of braided steel and fasten with a wire tie.
Step 4: Wrap threads of Brass MIP with Teflon tape.
Step 5 – Screw brass MIP (above) into Cooler Bulkhead.
Step 6 – Install Cooler Bulkhead into cooler from the inside.
Step 7: Wrap the other end of the cooler bulkhead with teflon tape and then from the outside of the cooler secure the bulkhead with larger rubber gasket and nut. Be sure to make sure the rubber gasket is against the cooler.
Step 8: Screw ball lock valve onto end of bulkhead.
Step 9: Screw the other brass MIP to end of ball lock to easily connect tubing for hot liquor or wort removal.
Fairly simple process that yields great results. I’m sure there are cheaper ways of building something comparable so if you have any better options for parts listed above feel free to add a comment below or send me an email. Enjoy your new mash tun and more importantly your homebrew!